The Great Loop: Are We Having Fun Yet?

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Sunset at anchor at Church Creek SC, just south of Charleston.

Are we having fun yet?   Yes …….  and no …..  but mostly YES!

Over the past couple of weeks, we find ourselves adapting to our new lifestyle. As often happens, the “dream” of cruising The Great Loop can sometimes overshadow the “reality” of cruising The Great Loop. Beginning Loopers (like us) often lament various things that are different than their expectations.  Lots of fun times, some not so much.

Cruising the Carolina Low Country ICW looks alot alike. Still lots of camera shy dolphins.

Coming in & out of marinas is getting less stressful as we gain experience.  Boat issues are to be expected whether the boat is brand new or 10 years old & thankfully ours have been limited.  We didn’t anticipate the amount of time we’d spend on navigation planning, timing tides & currents.  But it’s getting quicker.

Carolina Low Country wake

In the meantime, we’ve journeyed another 150 miles on our Loop – between hiding from spring thunderstorms and spending time exploring, that’s about our weekly average.

Crossing Charleston Harbor was nostalgic. Last time we were here, we sailed our Y Flyer from the Carolina Yacht Club to Fort Sumter and back — all on a plane. This time was a bit different!  The flag is at half staff in honor of former First Lady Barbara Bush.

Optimystique’s Loop is now up to 832 miles … only a drop in the bucket of the 5,200 yet to come, but still a good start.

Abandoned fire tower … “boring” ICW between Charleston and Georgetown SC

We may need to slow down … spring is a bit reluctant to come to the East Coast and David’s not getting to wear his shorts as often as he’d prefer. Timing The Great Loop is trickier than we anticipated.

Eagles on The Great Loop are much less camera shy than dolphins. Except that we had to UPS my Canon camera back to the factory for repair. 🙁 I am not happy but surviving….

We’re loving BORING days on the ICW…. the Low Country Carolinas scenery is absolutely beautiful … especially at anchor early in the morning or late almost sunset evening…

Sunset at anchor at Church Creek SC, just south of Charleston.

And we’re loving the history and ambiance of the Carolina Low Country.  We’ve visited Beaufort SC,  Isle of Palms (Charleston),  and now Georgetown.  At Isle of Palms, Enterprise picked us up (and returned us to the marina) and we toured the side of Charleston we hadn’t explored before – Boone Hall Plantation and the USS Yorktown at Patriot’s Point.

The famed “Canopy of Oaks” at the Boone Hall Plantation … 86 live oaks dripping with Spanish Moss.

TIP:  We discovered that we could get a rental car for a day and tour everywhere we could fit into 7 hours for LESS money that it would have been to Uber/Lyft to one place and back (including tips for the Lyft driver).  Plus Enterprise picked us up and returned us to the marina.  WIN WIN!!!

Boone Hall Plantation House

While the house is the 4th on the property and only dates to 1936, the slave cabins and the cotton gin building are original to prior to the Civil War.  The Gullah presentation on African culture in America was very educational.

Gin House (as in COTTON Gin) at Boone Hall Plantation SC

Interestingly enough, this plantation was not known as much for its cotton as its BRICKS!  Everything brickmakers could want are in the backyeard – sand, water, red clay just a couple feet down.  They made bricks for Fort Sumter, bricks for all the hoity toity homes in downtown Charleston and bricks for the plantation.  In all, they were making 4 million bricks a year by the time of the Civil War.  Unfortunately after the Civil War they couldn’t find labor – any labor – to continue making bricks.

Original Slave House at Boone Hall Plantation, SC

After our morning at the Boone Hall Plantation (we could have easily spent all day) we moved on to the USS Yorktown and Patriot’s Point complex.

USS Yorktown, Charleston, SC

But the USS Laffey, a WWII era Destroyer stole the show.

USS Laffey …

Known as the “Ship That Would Not Die”, in WWII, the USS Laffey was struck by 22 Japanese aircraft, some Kamikaze and some conventional.  The best part? The forward gun turret that you can see in the photo has a realistic presentation inside demonstrating what it must have felt like to be the 14 crewmen inside that turret during the attack.  Flashing lights, deafening noise and total chaos accompanied the video. Of the 14 crewmen inside, 8 died in the attack.

Prince George Winyah Episcopal Church, Georgetown SC … built in 1750 of ballast bricks, but not finished for 14 years since they had to wait on the next ship needing to get rid of their ballast bricks to continue construction.  The bricks are not all alike, indicating different ships ballast.

Moving on to Georgetown SC, our first impressions are that everything in this town is OLD … circa mid-1700’s.  George Washington visited here during the Revolutionary War.  There were more Revolutionary War battles fought in South Carolina than any other state — 0ver 200.  I had no idea!

SIgns adorning historical buildings showing the circa year built – Swamp Fox tour filled in many details and was well worthwhile!

We endured a COLD windy day (50 degrees & we saw 40 on the anemometer but you have to subtract 8 because that’s how fast we were going … still gusting over 30 on the nose). Driving from the lower helm kept us inside, warm and protected from the wind and spray. The visibility isn’t as good down below, but the benefits made up for the visibility on this day!

2000 Live Oaks canopy residential streets of Georgetown as part of a town revival program after the Great Depression.

In Georgetown, we discovered there’s a CVS a mile away from Harbortown Marina, so our mission was to get David’s prescription for cholesterol meds transferred and refilled.  CVS (or Walgreens) make it easy to get meds wherever you happen to be on The Great Loop.

Bradenton FL to Georgetown SC … 832 Miles on The Great Loop!

Now we’re ready to head off early Sunday morning — we need to be safely inside Osprey Marina near Myrtle Beach by mid-day to hide from the next 2 1/2 days of nasty weather, wind & thunderstorms.  Off we go!!!

Cheers!  Jan & David, currently Harborwalk Marina, Georgetown, SC

6 COMMENTS

  1. Glad you finally had the opportunity to run OPTIMYSTIQUE from the lower station. I was curious about hour thoughts. We enjoyed it on our way down the Tenn/Tom on those cold mornings.

    • Two runs in a row, William! Today & the day to Georgetown. I have no problem with the lower helm, we have good visibility. David prefers the visibility from the upper helm – understandably, the view up there is usually amazing. Optimystique is a great boat! Thanks so much! J&D

  2. Hi,
    I don’t know if you still monitor these pages but I have to tell you how enjoyable it is to be reading about your trip. Hoping and praying to do the loop in a couple of years!
    One question I have for you is why did you cut across Florida instead of going around the horn?
    And if you were going to do the loop again, what changes would you make from your first passage?
    Thanks,
    Jim

    • Hi Jim – sorry it took so long to find your comment. We cut through Florida because we’d already spent several years cruising the Keys in our sailboat and were not able to take the cross state route. Now we’ve done both! 🙂 As to what changes … primarily take more time in Canada – we loved the Trent Severn Canal System, Georgian Bay and especially the North Channel. But we were “rushing” to get thru Chicago by mid-Sept. Cheers! Jan

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